From Free to Fabulous: Painting and Staining Laminate Before & After

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For more information on how to paint & stain laminate furniture, follow us to the post at our new home HERE.
 photo beforeafterTVstand_zps6a0e3566.jpg

Stained laminate

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42 Responses to From Free to Fabulous: Painting and Staining Laminate Before & After

  1. Amy Terry says:

    Very Impressive! I love your end result!!! So beautiful!

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  4. Amber says:

    Going to try that PolyShades stain on the top of my table! Nice to see it worked out for someone else. If you have any tips for that particular step let me know!

    • Amber says:

      Also! Did it wear off at all? My only concern is its my table :/

      • Katherine says:

        Hi Amber,
        I’m interested in trying this on my table too. Just wondering if you ever found out if the miniwax wore off or not?
        Thanks!

      • @Katherine, The miniwax has not worn off with months of use, but I think that is partly due to the fact that as a TV stand, it gets almost no wear and tear! The TV just stays on top, and I occasionally add a vase or something. If I was doing a table that would get significant use, I would definitely try a polycrilic or some other sealer on top. I could see how this could scratch off with heavy use!

    • It hasn’t worn off, but since it is the tv stand, it doesn’t get much use. Everything on the top stays stationary. I know Katie bower at bower power blog used it on her coffee table, so she might know better. I could see how it might rub off with a lot of use!

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  6. Melissa says:

    did you prime before you put the stain on or just slap the stain right on the laminate?

    • No priming! With polyshades, it can just go right on the laminate. It is not extremely durable, and for a higher traffic piece I would probably use a topcoat, but a primer would show through with the polyshades because it is sheer!

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  8. budihrke says:

    Looks lovely! I learned about oil based poly over light color paint the hard way also. You can use a water based poly… it will not yellow, and it still gives a nice finish and protects the paint.

  9. Marnie says:

    So you only sanded the furniture where you were going to paint, not “stain”, correct?

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  12. Wendy says:

    Was the top of this very slick? I have a bedroom set that I want to use the poly shades on in the black stain. The whole suit is wood but not the tops…the tops are laminate and didn’t know if I could again it. Did you sand first?

    • No need to sand with polyshades, but I did just a small amount just to be safe! The top was not particularly slick, and I used a satin polyshades so it didn’t turn out slick in the end either, but if you used glossy it would be slicker. It will probably take several coats with the polyshades to get the same color as the rest of your wood!

    • Wendy says:

      *didn’t know if I could stain it.

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  14. Christina says:

    I’m trying this polyshades to a table top also. Is there some sort of top coat you would recommend to put on top after the polyshades has set?

    • My go to top-coat is miniwax polycrilic! It is clear and water based, so it will not yellow over time. Is this a kitchen table? I’m not sure about food safety and either of those products so It would be something to look into!

  15. Hi, I have an old kitchen table that is a hand-me-down. It’s outdated blonde wood, and I want to stain it something darker (like espresso brown). The top surface of the table is laminate, but everything else (chairs, legs, frame) is actual wood. Does the stain you use work for both laminate and wood? Would it look weird or mismatched if I tried to sand the whole thing the same color?

    • Callie,

      Yes the polyshades can work on both laminate and wood. I would be a bit hesitant about the polyshades on a kitchen table simply because I think it may wear off of laminate with a lot of use. It has held up very well on my tv stand, but it doesn’t get nearly the wear and tear that a kitchen table would get.

      Also, there is a chance that the color will come out differently on the laminate top than on the rest of the table. If you were just doing a solid wood table, I would sand everything down and apply a simple stain with a poly on top, but since you are wanting to match to a laminate top, I’m honestly not sure of the best option! The wood will absorb the color which will change the look while the laminate will not.

      I wish I knew the answer for you! Perhaps do some research about polyshades before making a final decision. Or give it a shot! You can always paint the top white and stain everything else if all else fails. I love a two toned look, and painting laminate is easy! Just an idea!

  16. Rae says:

    maybe you have already answered this, but when “staining” with the polyshades, did you use a regular paintbrush or did you use a sponge foam brush? I’m “staining” my dining room table Craigslist find and i’m doing exactly what you’re doing-two toned! Love it, and thank you for posting! This helped me out so so much! and to answer other people’s questions, the Minwax water based polycrylic is considered food safe!

  17. Rae says:

    How did you get it to not streak?! My first coat turned out awful and nothing I could do could salvage it!

  18. You need a PIN IT buttom!! I love this! I am so happy I found instructions oh how to “stain” my laminated kitchen table!

    • Thank you @Carolina Little! Yes; I have yet to program a pin it button into my site, but you can install your own pin it button to your browser that allows you to pin from any and every website!

      Be sure to check out my follow up post for more details on how this is holding up. It’s worked excellently as a TV stand but I would be careful to seal it well with something that gets as much use as a kitchen table!

  19. rachel says:

    I painted the laminate cupboard in my bathroom with the polyshades. I used the black and it was very simple and turned out great now I am trying to do the larger one in my master bathroom using tg e mahogany color and it is proving to be harder. Its blotchy and the product just seems very hard to work wIth. I got the black as a gloss and ybe mahogany as a satin so I don’t know if that is why or if black just covers better in general. I have been using a 2 inch paint brush but i think i might try one of my kitchen sponges or a rag and see if I have better luck. I pretty much treated the first coat as a real stain, painting it on and wiping it off and it looked nice but it was more of an oak than the dark rich mahogany i’m going for. I tried a second coat using the same technique and it was not any darker. When I paint it on it is very hard to not have brush strokes you have to use a lot of product to not have the brush strokes but then it starts running lol. Maybe my bristles are too long. Any advice would help as its sitting in pieces in my bathroom hahaha! I’ll attempt withcthe sponge and rag but after that I pretty much am sstumped and will probably have to paint it.

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  21. Sherry Harrod says:

    Did you sand the laminate on the top first before applying the polyshades? Did you apply anything else to the tabletop other than poly shades?

  22. kristin says:

    I am thinking of repainting a laminate topped dining room table. I want to use it for a homeschool table, so I really like that it has a smooth top to it right now. Did you find any textural differences after you stained the top of your dresser with the Polyshade? Is it still smooth and easily wipeable like the original laminate? Thank you!

  23. Kelly says:

    Could you just use a paint and primer in one to save a step?

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